I have sort of surprised myself with my favorite collections. Here I think I'm some kind of queer radical and I'm going to be blown away by an outsider ingenue. Mais non, the student of patternmaking and tailoring in me insisted that the takers of the cake are Alessandra Fachinetti (granted, a fresh new designer), but for no less than the house of Valentino, and none other than Armani. Yup, Armani. The Armani thing might have to be appended with the fact that I am partial to pants and don't give gown-draping it's due. I also really dig big bowties on chicks, and can't say enough about a well-made coat. The Fachinetti for Valentino thing is just because her shit is undeniably the best, with very few exceptions. I hope you'll go look at the rest of her collection on style.com.